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Bell, Gertrude Margaret Lowthian

(1868–1926)

Born in County Durham, the daughter of Sir Thomas Hugh Bell, a local industrialist, Gertrude Bell was among the first female students at Oxford at Lady Margaret Hall. She graduated in 1888 at the age of twenty with first class honors in modern history, the first woman to attain this level at the university.

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Gertrude Bell

(Hulton Getty)

Bell began her long relationship with the countries of the Near East when she first visited her diplomat uncle and aunt, Sir Frank and Lady Lascelles, in Tehran, Iran. She learned Persian and later published a verse translation of Persian poetry. However it was in 1899, when Bell spent some time in Jerusalem learning Arabic and visiting Petra and Palmyra, that she really became interested in desert travel and archaeology. Bell’s love of alpine mountaineering occupied her for the next five years, as she explored the Engelhorner mountains and ascended the Matterhorn from the Italian side.

In 1905 Bell traveled from Jerusalem, through Syria and Cilicia, to Konya in central Turkey. She became a self-taught and competent field archaeologist and in 1907, with Sir W.M. Ramsay, explored the Hittite and Byzantine site of Bin-Bir-Kilisse. In 1909 she traveled down the Euphrates from Aleppo and returned by way of Baghdad and Mosul in Iraq. She explored Ukhaidir, a huge Abbasid Palace, in 1911. All of these travels resulted in popular publications. Bell then set out to explore central Arabia, where only one other European woman had been. Starting from Damascus she traveled to Hail but was not allowed to travel any further and was kept as an honored prisoner until she had no alternative but to go back to Baghdad.